Tina and Rick (DaGoose) are from Vista, California. They have a couple of old (but sturdy) boats and love to fish and spend time on the water. Rick does very well with the halibut. Tina sells on Ebay and loves to paint. This was their first trip and as you’ll see, they had a blast. Tina saw my 2005 trip report on the web a year ago, and sent it to Rick at work. She says, "We decided right then, Abaco was the place for us!" A year later they flew cross-country to Miami, then on to Abaco, where they enjoyed a great two-week vacation. Here is their report; Tina is the author.
Hello all. This was our first trip to the Abacos. We were celebrating Tina’s 50th birthday and our 10th anniversary. Hope this report is not too long but wanted to share our experience. Thanks to all of you that helped us plan our vacation. We’ll see you all next year…if you’ll have us back! There are several parts to the adventure.
Day 1 Friday 3/10: Arrived at San Diego Airport for a 6:20 am flight to Miami only to find that Rick’s suitcase was 2lbs over and the cooler was 8lbs over. The agent didn’t charge us for the suitcase but did charge $25.00 for the cooler. Had an uneventful flight and finally arrived at our hotel in Miami at around 6:00 pm. Instead of heading off to the bar, we had to do something about the weight of our bags. We love greyhounds and had packed 8 cans of grapefruit juice concentrate, so we opened one and mixed a couple of cocktails and began the ‘precise’ weighing process before redistributing the contents of our bags.
We felt pretty good about our work (the only sacrifice was the grapefruit concentrate) and headed off to the bar. Our chores done, we were officially on vacation!
Day 2 Saturday 3/11: Woke up with killer headaches, but no worries, we were on our way to the Abacos for our first trip! Got to MIA early (9:30am for a 12:40 flight) just to make sure our bags arrived and also if we needed to redistribute some more. The suitcase weighed 48lbs and the cooler an even 50! The bad news was that Rick’s carry on weighed at least that! Arrived in Marsh Harbour, provisioned then headed for Rainbow Rentals.
Packed up the boat and off for Green Bananas on Lubbers. Cracked our first (of many) Kaliks and after some navigational challenges (I thought we were going the wrong way), pulled out the GPS and headed for the waypoints. Arrived at the GB dock, met Patti the caretaker and got our first glimpse of our cottage in paradise.
After settling in, we made some cocktails and just took it all in.
Instead of bringing steaks we brought frozen salmon and hamachi for appetizers. Had some salmon sashimi at our porch bar. We repeated this ritual many evenings.
Day 3 Sunday 3/12: Woke up to a glorious sunrise, had some tea and listened to the Cruiser’s Net as we ended up doing every morning. We LOVED this! Thanks to Patti and all who participate for the great information and the charming ‘small town’ feel.
We headed south exploring Tilloo, Channel, and Sandy Cays. Ended up on the beach at North Pelican Cay, we were the only ones there! Drank a couple of Kaliks on the beach and waded in the crystal clear water.
Left our private island and headed off to Snake Cay for some trolling. Caught a very small barracuda (released) and a yellowtail snapper. Had fresh fish tacos for dinner. Yummy!
Day 4 Monday 3/13: Decided to take the ‘hike’ to GTC today. Refueled in MOW (charming!) and headed north. Viewed Bakers Bay for the first time, I made a mental note that we would definitely return. Toured White Sound on GTC. Headed back south and decided to check out Tilloo Cut. The pass looked good so we went out to the drop and trolled a bit for no joy on the fishies. After several cocktails on the porch, got naked and streaked down to the end of the dock and back! (No pictures, thank god!)
Day 5 Tuesday 3/14: Fueled and provisioned in Hopetown. Rick bought a gaff. We drifted off the north end of Elbow and couldn’t believe how gorgeous the water is. Caught 2 Queen Triggerfish. I kept gushing about how pretty these fish were all the while Rick is nearly getting his finger chewed off while trying to release them unharmed.
We then decided to troll some Yozuris outside Tilloo. Only had a short time because I was so excited to go to the Full Moon Party at Cracker P’s. Turned back and one rod started buzzing! Rick grabbed it and I started to reel in the other line when all of a sudden that one went off! Mine broke off (may have been a wahoo) but he brought in a 30lb Yellowfin! Good thing he bought the gaff earlier that day.
Took outdoor showers (one of my favorite things) and got all gussied up for the big party. I was adamant that we not drive the boat at night. Since we had been reassured it was an easy and well marked trail, off we went with the flashlight. Well, suffice it to say we were still looking for the Cracker P’s trail days later! Yes, we managed to get lost on Lubbers.
Day 6 Wednesday 3/15: Very windy out of the north after a windless night. Took a walk trying to find the Cracker P’s trail. Found a few signs that we missed the day before.
Forgot to bring the machete so still no Cracker P’s! That night had Ahi sashimi and BBQ’d Ahi steaks wrapped in bacon.
Day 7 Thursday 3/16: A little bit chilly and windy this morning so we decide to go into Hopetown. Toured the museum, shopped at Vernon’s and had lunch at Cap’n Jacks. Went back to the cottage to offload supplies. Trolled off Tilloo with no luck. Trolled off Snake Cay with no luck. Checked out the sunken barge off the southwest end of Lubbers, kinda cool. That evening while having cocktails we ‘discussed’ (aka argued) about docking the boat. Had delicious hamachi sashimi and ‘discussed’ docking the boat. BBQ’d some more Ahi and ‘discussed’ docking the boat. I slept most of the night on the couch. We found out later from some locals that all couples argue about docking their boats!
Day 8 Friday 3/17: Almost missed Cruiser’s Net and it’s a good thing because I won the trivia question! I opted to collect my prize, a bucket of saltwater, from Bakers Bay. We anchored in about 4 feet of gin clear water and grabbed a couple of Kaliks. Saw the signs that read “Please don’t walk on the restored sand dunes” but they more likely mean “Stay of our private beach, riff raff”! Just wading in this water is one of the high points of the trip. Saw starfish, had a few more Kaliks and relaxed.
After munching on some sandwiches made from the leftover BBQ’d Ahi, we drove the boat south, through the Tilloo cut and out to the drop off. The ocean was flat and a gorgeous, deep purple blue. Around 4:00 saw some birds working and some small fish boiling but couldn’t get anything to bite. It was a great boat ride though and another fabulous day!
Day 9 Saturday 3/18: Another beautiful morning and not much wind or clouds.
Met Donna, the caretaker of The Pink Palm who we find out later is a Pinder. Trolled 4-5 hours out in the ocean. Rick caught a small Blackfin Tuna. Back at the cottage, we cleaned up and this time we were going to make it to Cracker P’s. I decided to concede and let him drive the boat there. Finally we had made it! Rick brought the green machines he had brought over for Bigfish. Met Patti & Eddie from Summerview (nice people) and they said that they would wrap the jigs up as a wedding present for Bruce. Had some of the famous smoked fish dip (devine!) and tried to figure out the recipe. Asked the bartender if he knew but he said if he did tell me he’d have to kill me. Met another local couple, I believe their name was Hale but if I got that wrong please forgive me. Nice people. The ride home in the dark was easy (still a bit of a full moon).
Day 10 Sunday 3/19: Finally we were off to Nippers for the pig roast! A perfect day for it. Looked like pros docking the boat, I might add.
Drank, ate, drank, met people, drank, swam, drank, drank some more, and danced on our stools! Did I mention we drank some drinks? This is a definite must do. We had a blast. Chatted with 2 nice couples seated next to us. When we asked what they did, the last guy (who was spiking his drinks with rum he brought in a water bottle) said he was a brain surgeon! I cracked up and said “Yeah, right!” He really was. We got so chummy that the plan was we would take them out fishing on Wednesday and then they would have us for dinner at their place. Sounded like a great idea at the time, but as the week wore on, not as good. Hey guys if you read this, sorry about that although I reckon you all were feeling the same way!
Encouraged, we walked to the end of the main road. Still no Cracker P’s. Took the path to the right until it ended at the water. We could see Cracker P’s to the north but still couldn’t figure out how to get there. Turned around and followed the road to the west side. It looked like a good place for Rick to flyfish for bones. Went back to the cottage, grabbed our gear and a cooler full of Kaliks and made the trek back to the west side. After tying the rigs, getting our water shoes on, and slathering ourselves with sunscreen and bug spray we were ready to bonefish! After about a half hour we’d had enough of it and decided to drink some coldies and beachcomb. Rick could get his first bonefish later. At the north end of the beach we came across the scenic route sign for Cracker P’s.
.....in the drink......go figure?
Fortunately just a lump and a bruise and I was back in the boat. The next stop Bakers Bay for about an hour. It was the end to a perfect day.
Day 11 Monday 3/20: First Day of Spring! Did a little more sightseeing in Hopetown today. Had delusions about returning to San Diego via boat but Winer had little interest in assisting the endeavor.
Trolled for a few hours outside. Saw 100’s of fish boiling but they wouldn’t bite. (Later heard that someone caught a couple of 90lb tunas.) Did a little packing back at the cottage, showered and headed off to Cracker P’s…in the boat. Good thing the signage is good on the dock......
Back at the cottage, Rick made drinks out of the pineapple we bought from Milo (yummy). Had smoked oysters for appetizers and BBQ’d blackfin tuna for dinner. Played Scrabble, Rick won.
Day 12 Tuesday 3/21: Windy and lumpy that day so we settled in at the ‘bar’ for some serious Scrabble with rum drinks. We played till 4:00 and I redeemed myself. Later, there was a knock on the door. It was Donna from the Pink Palm. She wanted to thank us for the blackfin tuna we had given her. A few hours later, after drinks dinner and more drinks, Rick went to bed. Somehow he missed the bed and landed on the floor. I guess it’s contagious! I stayed up a bit longer with Donna. I guess, I don’t really remember much. We had a good time.
Day 13 Wednesday 3/22: Our last full day. The morning was a bit rough and I’m not talking about the Sea of Abaco. Saw a black lab trottin’ down the lane behind the cottage. Called him over, gave him my famous ‘doggie shoulder massage’ and found his name was Salty. He looked like he was trying to find something so I asked him if he was looking for his ball. He ran to the front of the house and next thing I know he’s got a coconut in his mouth! (I guess dogs have to make do in paradise.) He proceeded to tear the outer shell off the coconut and throw it. I played catch with him for about an hour. What a great dog!
Met a group from Wisconsin that were staying at Southern Breeze and were loving it. The men were avid flyfishermen and the ladies loved to snorkel. The guys confided that they’d go to the best fishing spots and tell the girls it was a great snorkel place. That way everyone was happy. Saw Patti & Eddie again and we met Bigfish (Bruce) and his fiancé, Peg. Had a really nice time and also more of that smoked fish dip. Played with Bigfoot (he had finally warmed up to me after a massage) and Rick cuddled with the little one.
Left a bit after sundown with a few too many drinks under our belts. As I was pulling up the anchor, it was really stuck, it came loose and I fell back hitting my elbow HARD! I was fine tho, just another minor flesh wound.
Day 14 Thursday 3/23: Leaving paradise today. Got to the airport 3 and a half hours before our flight. After checking our bags we hotfooted it over to 7 till Late for some sustenance. The kitchen was closed so we opted for a Kalik. Then some Goombay Smashes, expertly mixed by Ruth, the bartendress. After about an hour there, 3 boys who look to be about 16 or 17, saunter in trying to look really cool. They order buds and I look at Ruth and I am cracking up. She looks like she’s about to burst but fills their drink orders. They order strawberry daiquiris and as they are leaving tell Ruth that they were really good ones. Like they had been having them forever. After they were gone we bust up. I wonder if I ever looked like that when I was their age.
Our flight to Miami in an 18 seater Beech 1900 was supposed to be about an hour. Well, after a 2 and a half hour flight we finally landed. During the flight we were rerouted to Ft Lauderdale and then Key West because of sever thunderstorms but eventually were cleared for Miami. It actually worked out OK because we didn’t have that long of a wait in the airport. Landed at LAX at 11:00pm, got our rental car and drove to Vista. Arrived at our house at 2:15am (5:15 Bahamian time) to some very happy doggies!
We met a lot of great people, saw so many beautiful places, and so many very nice rental homes. We absolutely loved Green Bananas. It was the perfect place for us. Thanks again to Cruiser’s Net and this board. It truly helped make this an incredible adventure.
After using up our drink tokens, we left Nippers, stopping by Milo Pinders stand for a fresh pineapple and some jewelry for me. Well, somehow I managed to miss the deck of the boat while boarding and ended up here…
Trolled along the west side of Tilloo Cay, but no fishies. Cruised over to north Pelican Cay just as the last boat was leaving, we had it all to ourselves again! Drank some Kaliks on the beach.
